WARNING - TLDR! This blog is long. This should be broken down into separate smaller blogs that are more digestible, but I got rolling and this stone isn't about to gather any moss. 

How to choose the right golf iron set?

When people find out that my job is buying and selling golf clubs, it is inevitable that they ask me what they should be using. What's the best iron set on the market? What irons should I be using? If you were me what used golf irons would you buy? The answer is clear, PING eye 2 beryllium copper iron set 1-PW with new Golf Pride Tour Wrap grips and original stiff shafts. I kid, kinda... Those clubs are fire and if you're gaming those, you already know that you never need to change. But, really when it comes to irons there have been so many improvements in the last 20 years that it's difficult to keep up with all the new terminology that gets thrown around. Forged vs. Cast, Blades vs. Muscle Back vs. Cavity Back, Players Irons vs. Players Distance vs. Game Improvement vs. Super Game Improvement. It can get a little confusing. It doesn't help that brands don't all stick to the same script. But, I'm here for you. I'm going to do my best to let you know what the each moniker means and lay out who should be playing what.

Manufacturing Process

How a club is made plays a role in how the club feels and how it performs. There are two processes that are used when manufacturing an iron: Cast and Forged. A cast iron just means that they take molten metal and pour it into mold (a cast) and when it cools they sand down the rough edges, kinda like pouring water into an ice cube tray and freezing it. A forged iron is where a big chunk of metal is heated up to become malleable and then struck with a hammer into the shape that it's supposed to be, think old timey blacksmith with a forge, anvil, and hammer beating on a chunk of iron to get make a sword. Only with forged golf clubs today there isn't some dude with forty inch biceps pounding out each club head, now there's big hammer machines that only hit the metal like three times and the job's done. So now that you know the processes, how does that actually affect the clubs. On the molecular level there's a huge difference. If you take a chunk of metal and look at it under a microscope you'll see lines and striations going in more or less the same direction. Now if you heat it just enough to become malleable and then hit it with a hammer, when it cools those striations will continue to be there. But when metal is heated to the point of becoming liquid all of the molecules become very excited and there's disarray, kinda like elementary school kids at recess. Some molecules are going this way, some are going that way. When it's then poured into a mold and cooled, the same-same directional striations don't exist anymore. So what does that mean for club feel and performance? 

Cast

• Can be poured into intricate shapes to create perimeter weighting thus a larger sweet spot.
• Can't bend the lie or loft once the die has been cast.
  Once the flow of the grain is removed in the melting process the metal becomes too brittle
  to be bent. (it's not a bad thing, so you can't adjust the lie to be more flat or upright. NBD for most people)
• Generally has a larger sweet spot and has more distance. The perimeter weighting is where the magic is happening. But it's much harder to hit an intended fade or draw.
• Better Suited to newer players that just want to hit the ball straight and long.
• Cheaper process means cheaper club.

Forged

• Some players claim that a forged iron feels "softer" when they strike the ball
• Can bend the lie and loft to adjust to a players specifications.
• Less distance but more workability. You want to fade the ball into that green or put a draw around that dogleg? The forged iron has your back.
• Suited for the more seasoned players that want to be able to affect the balls flight path.
• More expensive process means more expensive club.

Lie Angle

I just wanted to touch on lie angle because it was referenced a few times already. The lie angle refers to the angle created between the ground and hosel when the sole of the club is sitting square on the ground. If it's too flat, you might find yourself hitting the ball off the toe and the ball will go right. If it's too upright, you might find yourself hitting the ball off the heel and the ball will go left.  Go to youtubes to figure out how to find out if your lie angle is correct. The application in the context of this blog: If your lie angle is incorrect and you want to get your clubs bent, you can only do it if your clubs were forged. If they are cast, no bueno, fortunately StickHawk carries plenty of new and used irons that may already be the lie angle you're looking for or they're forged and you can bend them to your specifications.

Iron Set Head Design

This is where things start to get really messy. There's just too many descriptors for irons and while there's definite variation there's also some crossover. Truth is, right when I think I have it figured out, I find out I'm wrong. But not today, today the clouds are going to open up and the sun is going to shine, and we're all going to have epiphanies on top of epiphanies. And as soon as that happens it's also gonna direct us on our path to choosing the right iron set. Next thing you know, people from all around are going to come to you for advice on what irons they should be choosing. And you know what? You can just point them right here, because this blog never tires. 

Blades

This is really why you came, you want to know if you can hit blades. They sound cool, they look cool, you want them. But what are they? Blades refer to irons that look like butter knives. "Enough with the colloquialisms, this isn't informing me of anything." Whoopsies, okay blades... The top line (the part of the club that you look down on when you're holding the club at address) is very narrow. The sole (the part that rests on the ground when you address the ball) is also relatively thin. There isn't a cavity behind the face, it's just a solid chunk of metal beaten into a small profile. That means that the majority of the weight in the head of a blade is right behind the face, there isn't any perimeter weighting to increase the size of the sweet spot. That means there isn't anything to degrade the spin on an off-center hit. That's great if it's intentional, not so great if finding the sweet spot is more akin to pin the tail on the donkey. 

Key Takeaways: Definitely the slickest looking club, but unless you're able to consistently hit the ball in the sweet spot, you're going to have a bad day. Your good shots will feel good and keep you coming back, but your bad shots are going to be much worse. And to add insult to injury, it hurts a lot more when you hit the ball off the toe. So if you're not a pro, you should probably be looking at different designs. Alternatively, there are plenty of people who might argue that the negative feedback from hitting the ball not on the sweet spot is the best way to make improvement. Kinda like snapping a rubber band on your wrist every time you catch yourself biting your nails.

The Goods: TaylorMade P7MB, Titleist 620MB, Mizuno Pro 221, Ping Blueprint, Callaway Apex MB

Cavity Back

Cavity back irons are called that because of the cavity in the back of the iron. On the real though, the technology for cavity back irons actually came from putters. Karsten Solheim didn't like the way his putter twisted when he didn't hit putts right on the sweet spot. So he designed a putter that moved the weight away from the face by creating a cavity behind the face. The result was less twisting and thus straighter putts when the ball wasn't struck perfectly. Well ole Karsten didn't stop there, he took that technology and applied it to irons. The Ping 69 Ballnamic irons were introduced to the market in 1961, they were alright. How many people come up with a real game changer on their first try? That's not to say they weren't revolutionary, they were, the only other clubs on the market were blades. The 69's were nice, they just didn't push the perimeter weighting far enough so the change was incremental. They were essentially just blades that had a slot line drilled out of the back of the head. But give a man with desire, drive, and means, a little bit of time and he will accomplish what he set out to do. Karsten got back to schemin', tinkerin', and iteratin', until 5 models and 21 years later he came out with the best iron set ever created, the Ping Eye2. How many styles from 1980 still look good today, not many (I'm looking at you, shoulder pads for women... I hope they don't come back in style because how stupid will I look? Really stupid, and I can't afford much more stupid), but the Ping Eye2 is timeless. It looks as good today as it did when it was released, especially the BeCu model. Golly, those clubs so so so sweet. Now you have the history, lets get down to busines to defeat... (my brain can't not take a tangential path...) So cavity back clubs today are designed so that off-center shots still go somewhat straight. If you are new to the game these are the clubs you should be looking at. Heck, even if you're a pro you should at least consider them. According to a Golf Magazine article in 2020, among the top 50 tour players, 44% played cavity back irons, 26% played blades, the other 30% played a mixed set. If a tour player can play cavity backs then so can you.

Key Takeaways: Karsten Solheim is the freakin man and everyone should know it. Cavity back irons move the weight from directly behind the face to the perimeter, increasing the size of the sweet spot. Off-center hits still try to go straight. Pro's play them, so can you.

The Goods: Ping G425, Mizuno JPX 923 Hot Metal, TaylorMade Stealth, Titleist 620 CB, Callaway X Forged CB

Muscle Back

These irons are the tweeners. They sit between blades and cavity backs. A lot of the weight is still right behind the face but there are some elements of perimeter weighting included. A lot of what we call blades today are actually muscle backs. Just look at the list of "The Goods" for the blades, notice the "MB" in a lot of the names? You guessed it because you're smart, that MB translates to Muscle Back. The only reason I'm listing Muscle Back as a separate category is because IMHO I feel like there are clubs that still fall into this category. You could say, "Those clubs listed in blades are called MB so they are muscle backs." You could say that, then we'd both be wrong. I'd argue that club manufacturers are all going away from making true blades. Say you made a bell curve with the left side being blades and the right side is cavity backs and the middle is muscle backs. The entire curve has shifted to the right, Ping Eye2 - the original cavity back more closely resembles a modern blade than it does a modern cavity back, a Callaway Paradym for example. So we have new cavity backs, the old cavity backs are being called muscle backs, the old muscle backs are being called blades, and the old blades are gone. Did you follow that? Doesn't matter, if you've made your mind up you'd just argue that, "THEY SAY MB IN THE NAME." Well you're louder so you got me on a technicality. Good on you, but those are as bladey as blades get. There's really not much else to say about muscle backs because I gave one end of the spectrum with blades and the other end with cavity backs. MB's are the middle ground I'll list them and you decide. IDGAFlying hoot what you think. 

Key Takeaways: Muscle Backs are the irons that have a design that puts them between blades and cavity backs. They are good for the player that realizes they aren't good enough to hit blades consistently but want to look like all the cool kids anyways. Just kiddin', muscle backs are great for the player that goes out and hits an 86 because they used to be good, and they used to be able to hit all the shots, but ravages of time limits their ability to keep it going.

The Goods: TaylorMade P770, TaylorMade P790, Callaway Apex Pro, Ping i500

Iron Set Suitability

Ok, so now that we've gotten out of that thicket of weeds time to jump right into another one. Frankly, I'm not even sure what this category should be called but brands all over have started adopting a naming convention for play styles of irons. I think suitability works just fine and if I think of a better title while I type I'll let you know. Just know that these preamble sentences stay regardless. The ink is dry and I'm not going back. What I'm talking about is game improvement irons, or players irons, or players distance irons, or super game improvement irons, or hybrid irons. It's the hodgepodge categorization of clubs that kinda fit into other design categories but they are also kinda differentiated enough that they need their own category. So here's my best attempt to enlighten you on what they are and how they perform.

Players Irons

Players irons are geared for the advanced player, the guy or gal that shoots in the mid 70's to the low 80's. They lean towards the blade-muscle back side of the spectrum. They are generally sleek and have a high ceiling for workability, meaning you can put more English on the ball. 

The Goods: Ping i230, Srixon ZX5, Srixon ZX7, TaylorMade P7MC, Mizuno JPX 923 Tour

Players Distance Irons

Players distance irons are similarly geared for the advanced player but they go slightly away from the blade side of the spectrum and fall more in the middle, maybe even shading slightly to the cavity back side. The shifting of more weight to the perimeter of the club lends itself to longer, straighter shots versus its' Players Iron counterpart.

The Goods: Callaway Rogue ST Pro, Mizuno Pro 225, Titleist T200, Ping i525, Cobra KING Forged Tec

Game Improvement Irons

Game improvement irons are suited for the 15-25 handicapper. The weekend warrior that loves a crisp Saturday morning with the boys, while sluggin' down a cold snack. He likes golf and likes hitting the ball straight and far, but he's got priorities during the week that keep him from getting to the range enough to see a noticeable improvement in his game. And frankly that doesn't bother him because golf is about spending time with the boys, not hittin' greens or sinkin' putts, those are just added bonuses that he screams about when they happen. At least that's what he tells himself when he gets home and falls asleep on the couch after each ten beer round. Seriously though, these clubs can be really great, the sweet spot is yuge. The top line of the club is typically very wide and for a lot of people that inspires confidence. They typically have graphite shafts affixed which lowers the weight and the flex, while variable, is usually comes stock geared for the player with a slower swing speed. All these factors add up to a club that's fairly easy to hit if you're new to the game or just happy to be on the course.

The Goods:  Callaway Great Big Bertha 23, TaylorMade SIM2 MAX, Srixon ZX4, Ping G430

Super Game Improvement Irons

If the game improvement irons are for the guy that just likes to be at the course with his boys, the super game improvement irons are for the guy that just likes to drink and his location just happens to be the golf course. He might not have finished all 18 holes the last three times he played but you better believe he finished the 19th hole every time. I kid, I'm sure that guy is fun occasionally, but on the golf course that guy is... Let's face it, he's a doo-doo head. Don't be that guy, it's not as funny as you think it is. The super game improvement iron is for the player that's lost a lot of swing speed. Maybe they have sustained an injury or maybe father time is calling.  If you are playing these clubs that does not make you any less than any other golfer. If you love the game and want play, these clubs are a godsend. They turn mishits and bad shots into respectable shots. Whatever the case may be, the super game improvement irons generally have a large face with a big sweet spot. The hind quarters of the club can look similar to a hybrid. It get's the weight as far to the perimeter as possible. They have much more loft on them to get the ball airborne and sailing in the right direction. And lastly, they are very light weight. Stock shafts are very light as well and come with a lot of flex. Consider these irons if you want to keep playing but the playing keeps seeming out of reach, because these bad boys will have you playing for keeps.

The Goods: Cleveland Launcher XL Halo, Cobra T-Rail, TaylorMade Stealth HD, XXIO (Most of XXIO's products are geared for the venerable populace), Ping G710

Fin

Hopefully this guide helps navigate buying and playing the right clubs, hopefully my off topic ravings don't deter you in your process, hopefully you're a little more educated about irons. Here's the rub, there is no magic bullet. You aren't going to pick up a club and instantaneously shave fifteen strokes off your game. Ask any old codger sitting in the pro shop at your local muni, getting good at golf is a journey. There are countless cocksure adolescents (or adolescents parading about in an adult body) who have bought a set of blades off the rack because they looked cool only to be humbled the very first round played with them. I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying blades, I love blades. Just know what you're getting into before you get in. Being smart is learning from your own mistakes, being wise is learning from others' mistakes. Be wise. Purchase and play the clubs that meet you where you're at. Let this guide, (the joking bits aside) be a foundation on which you build. Continue to do research, find a place where you can get fit, sign up for a fitting day. Playing clubs that are a good fit for you will make your rounds so much more enjoyable. 

Please note, this guide is not Gospel. "I'm just a girl, standing in front of a boy, asking him to love her." -Julia Roberts